Most of these type questions can be answered by 1) reading through the product description, and 2) listening to the sound clips. We don’t mind answering emails of this nature when we have time, but using words like “punchy,” “dynamic,” “responsive,” “gainy,” etc. only go so far towards describing a sound. You really need to hear the clips to make up your own mind.

A lot of people like JJ and others don’t. In our experience JJs have the best track record and best tone for the money. Keep in mind that is our opinion, but we know what tones we’re seeking when we build an amp, and we’re also aware that many tone purists will more than likely swap tubes anyway. Simply put, the JJs help to keep our production costs down, while still providing great tone and reliability.

Basically stated, no. I have built several amps from kits, but even then I substituted parts. All of my amps’ parts are sourced from several different vendors, depending on what components I need, as well as pricing. Of course if you ask me to build an amp from a kit, that’s no problem. Even then I may suggest alternate parts if I feel it will contribute to the tone and/or durability of the amp, and insist on replacing anything that is unsafe or does not meet current electrical code.

While I don’t try to hide my circuits, I am usually extremely busy building amps, running a business, touring with my band, and spending time with my family, and do not have the time to address these types of questions. I offer schematics and/or layouts for my most popular models to qualified amp technicians.

For most, including my Plexi amps (2203/2204, M45, M50, M100) I use Classictone transformers, made by Magnetic Components Inc. (Chicago IL). For my other amps, I use a variety of product, including Hammond and Heyboer. While I feel that Mercury Magnetics iron is great for some amps, I don’t believe the exuberant prices are justified. That said, if you’d like me to use MM iron, I can… and can tack on the extra price as well.

Yes, for all the 50 watt and under models. I do not build any 100 watt amps as combos. Please contact me to inquire about a combo order.

Yes I can. Please please contact me to inquire about pricing.

Short answer – Yes. If you have a particular idea or model in mind, please please contact me to inquire about pricing and details.

Yes. VariWattage is an add-on that allows a player to dial in (via a control pot) any wattage, from full to nearly nothing. Think of it as a “better Variac.” VariWattage can be wired so that only the power amp is scaled, or the entire amp. This is useful for largely reduced output levels, i.e. bedroom volumes. Please note that any form of power scaling will most likely affect tone at least a little, because the voltage applied to an output transformer and speaker interaction have a great effect on tone.

No, but then the AC3-0 is not really Class A either. Both are Class AB, cathode biased, running four EL84. “Class A” was more of a marketing buzzword for the AC-30. For a technical explanation, read Aiken’s Is the Vox AC-30 Really Class A?.

There are several ways to go from clean to dirty on non-footswitchable amps. The most common way is to use the guitar volume knob – it lowers the gain as it’s rolled back. On lower gain amps (i.e. Plexis, Fenders, etc.) its easier to do. Not so with most modern high gain varieties. One could also use an A/B switch on amps that have 2 channels and an input for each (think Marshall JTM45, JMP50, etc.).

Footswitching amps offer convenience, but at a (small) sacrifice to tone, since there’s more circuitry involved – relays or optocouplers, etc. There’s always some trade-off. No one makes the perfect amp, unless it’s perfect for a certain players application. Otherwise, we’d all be buying the same amp! 😉

There is a great deal of info available online. Some of it confusing, some very good, and some just plain dangerous for the inexperienced. Here is a link to a great video tutorial by Mojotone that will explain biasing a fixed bias amp. If you are uncertain about your abilities and safety procedures, please take your amp to a qualified amp technician.

Burn-in is the process of letting the amplifier run for an extended period with a signal applied (usually a 1KHz sine wave) to ensure no premature component failures. Most electronic component failures occur during the first 48 hours of use, so this help to catch any bad components before the amp is shipped, as well as to break in capacitors, tubes, etc.

Yes! We are pleased to announce we accept international orders. Please be aware that shipping charges can be rather high, and
we will under no circumstances declare lower values. This protects us as well as you, by allowing us to insure the shipment for the full value. Duties, import taxes, and custom fees are the responsibility of the customer.

Please visit the Ordering page.
Most order related questions are addressed there. If you still cannot find the information you need, please contact us.

No problem. First, please contact us to discuss what you’d like, and to obtain a quote. If you’re happy with that, you can pay half down and then the balance when the amp is ready to ship.

Please visit the Ordering page for that information.

Payment can be made via PayPal to sales@blueniteproductions.com, by calling (205) 774-0350 with your credit card info, or via cashier’s check or money order by mailing payment to:

Granger Amplification
132 Pinecrest Rd
Hueytown, AL 35023

Please note, all payments for goods and services are subject to our terms and conditions.

Sure! I’ve even worked on stereo tube amps and old jukebox amps. Please note, due to parts and components availability, some brands and models will be difficult or impossible to service. Please contact us for more information.

Our bench fee is $70 per hour with a $35 (1/2 hour) minimum, plus the cost of parts and shipping. Detailed information is available on
the Services page. You can also contact us for an estimate.

Yes, but only within 50 miles of Birmingham AL, and at a rate of $70 per hour, plus parts, plus $1.00 per mile, round trip. If I have to bring the amp into my shop to finish the repair, the charge for that time is the standard $70 per hour.

Exceptions for travel beyond this range are made on a case-per-case basis if you’re willing to pay for all travel, meals, and accommodations. In other words, if you have an ailing Superlead and you live in the Cayman Islands, fly me down. My passport is current.

No.

 Yes. A flat shipping rate based on weight is charged at checkout during ordering. When the order is ready to ship actual shipping charges may be adjusted and invoiced, which includes insurance from the carrier for the value of shipment. Please note, we do not ship cabinets overseas. We will not declare lower values to offset customs or brokerage fees. Duties, import taxes, and custom fees are the responsibility of the customer.

We’re currently shipping via UPS and USPS only.

Yes!

When I have time to record new clips, I will certainly consider the requests I receive, but I probably won’t remember specific requests. In the near future I do hope to offer more variety, i.e. using different guitars and settings, for the demo clips.

For my YouTube clips, I’m usually very descriptive and detailed about the gear I used. In all of my clips I plug straight into the amp, and no overdrive/distortion/gain pedals are ever used. If you hear any effects (reverb, delay, tremolo, etc.) they were added at mixdown, unless noted in the video.

Please see the Warranty section on the Ordering page.